The Evolution of Chikankari: From Mughal Courts to Modern-Day Fashion
May 9, 2024
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Embroidery has long been a form of self-expression and cultural identity, and Chikankari embroidery stands out as a testament to the meticulous craftsmanship of Indian artisans. This blog post will take you through the delicate world of Chikankari stitches, each a small marvel of design and technique.
Before the dance of the needle begins, the fabric is chosen with care. Traditionally, Chikankari is done on light, airy fabrics like muslin or cotton1. The fabric is cut and styled, often following the tailor’s precise measurements, to ensure a perfect canvas for the embroidery to come to life.
Chikankari is renowned for its variety of stitches, which can be broadly classified into three categories: flat stitches, embossed stitches, and Jali work. Each stitch has its own role and is selected based on the design and the desired effect on the fabric.
Tepchi is a long-running stitch that lays the foundation for the design. It’s a simple yet essential stitch used to outline the motif and create a base for further embellishment.
Also known as the double back or shadow stitch, Bakhiya is worked from the wrong side of the fabric. It creates a herringbone pattern on the back, which casts a shadow on the front, giving the embroidery a subtle depth.
Hool is a detached eyelet stitch, where a hole is punched in the fabric, and the threads are teased apart. It is then secured with small straight stitches, often forming the center of a flower.
Jali work is a marvel of textile artistry. Without drawing the thread through the fabric, artisans weave small buttonhole stitches to create a delicate lattice effect, reminiscent of the latticed screens of Indian palaces.
Phanda and Murri are used to embroider the center of flowers in Chikankari motifs. These stitches resemble French knots, with Phanda being millet-shaped and Murri rice-shaped, adding texture and dimension to the design.
In contemporary fashion, Chikankari has found new admirers and uses. It adorns everything from traditional wear to modern outfits, showcasing the versatility of this ancient art form. Designers have embraced Chikankari, incorporating it into their collections and pushing the boundaries of this embroidery style.
Chikankari embroidery is more than just needlework; it’s a legacy of stitches passed down through generations. Each stitch tells a story of patience, precision, and passion—a narrative woven into the very fabric of India’s rich textile heritage.
As we explore the intricate world of Chikankari, we not only discover the beauty of each stitch but also the enduring spirit of the artisans who keep this tradition alive. Stitch by stitch, Chikankari continues to captivate and charm, one thread at a time.
